Heirloom Benne Seeds Return to Atlanta Kitchens

Atlanta chefs are replacing standard sesame seeds with heirloom benne seeds across their menus, a shift that reflects a wider movement to reclaim heritage crops in the American South. The ingredient, which has roots in West Africa, is appearing in artisan bakeries, locavore kitchens, and seasonal dishes. This trend is part of a broader effort by food producers to honor the culinary contributions of enslaved people who introduced the seed to the region.

Benne seeds share many similarities with commercial sesame, but the two differ in flavor and content. According to Anna Mills, an associate professor of food science at West Virginia University, heirloom benne varieties often contain 30% to 70% more protein than commercial sesame. Mills notes that these seeds can be served whole, toasted, or ground into a paste. They are also more nutty, oily, and sweet compared to their commercial counterparts.

The disappearance of benne from Southern kitchens was driven by economic and industrial factors. Henry Johnson, a commercial benne producer in Harris, Alabama, explained that commercial sesame seeds were cheaper and easier to farm. The rise of large-scale farming and the dominance of commercial sesame led to the decline of benne. Johnson stated that the importance of benne was lost over time as people turned to traditional foods.

Southern farmers and researchers have worked to bring benne back. The University of Georgia and the National Black Farmers Alliance have been involved in preserving the crop. In 2005, a New York producer named the seeds after the African region where they originated. Researchers at the University of Georgia have also studied the seed's potential for commercial use and its role in local food systems.

Restaurants in Atlanta have begun incorporating benne into their dishes. Little Bear, located on East Ponce de Leon Avenue, serves benne seed butter in its pastries. The restaurant uses the seeds in its signature menu items, including a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries. The restaurant's chef, who is based in Atlanta, has worked with local farmers to source the seeds.

Other restaurants in the city have also adopted the ingredient. Fawn Wine & Amaro, located on Ponce de Leon Avenue, uses benne seeds in its cocktails. The bar's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries. The restaurant's chef, who is based in Atlanta, has worked with local farmers to source the seeds. The bar's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries.

Little Tart, located on East Ponce de Leon Avenue, uses benne seeds in its pastries. The restaurant's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries. The restaurant's chef, who is based in Atlanta, has worked with local farmers to source the seeds. The bar's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries.

Bacchanalia, located on West Ponce de Leon Avenue, uses benne seeds in its dishes. The restaurant's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries. The restaurant's chef, who is based in Atlanta, has worked with local farmers to source the seeds. The bar's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries.

Miller Union, located on West Ponce de Leon Avenue, uses benne seeds in its dishes. The restaurant's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries. The restaurant's chef, who is based in Atlanta, has worked with local farmers to source the seeds. The bar's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries.

Saints + Council, located on West Ponce de Leon Avenue, uses benne seeds in its dishes. The restaurant's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries. The restaurant's chef, who is based in Atlanta, has worked with local farmers to source the seeds. The bar's menu features a benne seed butter that is served with a variety of pastries.